POHRONSKA PAHORKATINA, South West Slovakia
This is the kind of winery we dream of. Seriously. Winemaker Zsolt Suto manages the rare trick of seeming to be, at once, a mad scientist, staunch medievalist and visionary artist. Located in a misty, river valley in South Western Slovakia, Zsolt produces wines that play with expectation. His multi-vintage, botrytis affected, skin fermented, flor aged, zero sulfite, super wines might sound like they’re gonna be trippy freakshows but the reality is quite different. These wines are wonderfully elegant with miles and miles of detail. By contrast, his rowdy table wines have a funk and swagger that reminds us that a country wine oughta feel like a country wine. Zsolt’s great superpower is his belief in his work, his vines, his terroir - he doesn’t let ego get in the way. As he puts it “there are certain things that can only be
This is a multivintage blend of Dunaj, Blauer Portuguieser and Alibernet all destemmed, vinified in open-topped fermentors and aged in a variety of old barrels, blended in winter and bottled that spring without sulfite addition.
Made from an early pick of young vine St. Laurent from one of Zsolt’s historic single-stick vineyards, an artifact of traditional Slovak winegrowing. Directly pressed to special 300L barrels he has made from the trees of Zemplen Forest in Hungary. Fresh St. Laurent must is added in just before bottling to referment the wine to get that ‘pet nat’ effect. No disgorgement.
Welschriesling picked from one of Zsolt’s historic single-stick vineyards, an artifact of traditional Slovak winegrowing. The grapes are harvested with botrytis in the bunches, destemmed and fermented on the skins. Aged in special 300L barrels he has made from the trees of Zemplen Forest in Hungary.