BIO BIO, Chile
A long time veteran of the wine industry, Mauricio ‘Mauro’ Gonzalez knows the prettified cellar sorcery of the modern winery inside and out. Perhaps that’s why he went so hard the other way. Mauricio grows 4 hectares of old vines in Yumbel’s volcanic terroir that he vinifieds in a dirt floored, slat roofed ‘winery’ using historic open-topped ‘Pipas’ and nothing resembling the gleaming cellar craft he built his skills with. This kind of primitive set up might be expected to churn out superlatively rustic wines but in this way Mauricio’s classical pedigree really shows: his wines are living relics but they’re utterly clean and gorgeous vinified with historic methods without sulfite additions.
150 year old vines of Païs in volcanic sand, nbd. Fermented in ‘Pipa’ the traditional style of tall, upright barrel that gave the style its name made from the heritage Rauli wood.
QUINTA DE UNIHUE
From a contiguous parcel of Païs that’s up on the hillside with compact granitic soils. Terroir side by side anyone?